Top 12 Chilean Cities

Top 12 Chilean Cities

I may not be the best gringo to share a list like this, but then again I am not the worst.

By the way, the word gringo can and is used very affectionately by those who utter it and refer to others, non-chilenos, or non-Latinos, or white or fair-skinned people among their own kind, as such. But like many words, it can be used used and misused pejoratively, and I do not wish to perpetuate those vibes and stereotypes. So, I will not try to refer to myself as a gringo too much anymore, even though I am.

Some people love to travel; I put myself in that category. Unfortunately, I have not been able to travel as much as I would like. I read about travels and trips more than I do them. And I write about a few of those trips, too.

Many Americans choose Europe as a first rate place to visit. Others choose Asia, the more intrepid make it to Africa. Australia seems awfully nice. A lot of foreign places do seem cool, huh?

Then there is Latin America, and below the northern regions of Mexico and Central America and the Caribbean lies South America. A big enough place.

One corner of it is Chile; within that especially long strip of land there are some cities that populate the deserts and valleys and fjords of "esta franja de tierra bendita".

I felt like describing a few of them, so here goes.

1. Santiago.

Massive in most ways, but the downtown is not too big. You can walk around the major buildings, hills, and parks that make up its most popular tourist sites. I visited there briefly at the end of my mission in 1991, then stayed for a few days during my study abroad in 1994, and then toured it with my wife, two small daughters, and mother-in-law in 2005.

It is big; it is the central hub and heart of the country. Millions have moved there from the rest of the land in order to find education, work, opportunity, progress. There are some really nice suburbs, like Providencia, Las Condes, Vitacura, that are situated east and north of downtown. There are some crowded slummy neighborhoods, but nothing like the other South American mega-cities that you see pictures of, like the favelas of Brazil. Most people live in between, with a small house or apartment, and relative safety. The metro is pretty good (and functional until recent riot destruction).

Six to seven million people live in the capital Santiago, over a third of the overall population.

Two hour drive from the ocean, maybe an hour's drive to the mountains, depending on how you go, this place is a bit like Los Angeles, California. Smog can be atrocious, the occasional heavy rains of winter can fill up the gutters and the ever occasional snow will surprise all, with a sprinkling of earthquakes every decade or so.

2. Concepcion. (accent over the "o")

Not too big for number two, it has a modest downtown and central city parks. Not many tall buildings, but I have not been there since 2005. It is next to the major river Bio Bio, which carves its way out to sea and separates major boroughs like Chiguayante and San Pedro, and the sister city to the north, Talcahuano, which is abutted by the major ocean bay. Maybe one and half million residents with all the spread?

I lived on the south side, close to the aforementioned river, where there were some poor streets, rather, poor homes adjoining those streets and dead ends, that were later razed. I am not sure where all the poor folks, many of them my friends, moved. Hopefully better homes, but none so closely located by the majestic river, I would imagine.

3. Vina del Mar. (tilde over the "n")

It is pretty, a bit like San Diego, California,  but not as formidable or rich, or with as many bays. It has nice beaches and neighborhoods, and I think of it as newer money and more modern than most Chilean towns. 

Nice tourist destination, especially in the warm summers from November to February.

4. Valparaiso. (accent over the "i")

Older and has steeper hills. It is a sister city of Vina, (above), which some people combine in population when counting, thus sometimes seems to have more than Concepcion and its agglomeration of cities and towns 500 or so kilometers to the south. The Poet's museum is here, of which I have missed out twice because it is closed on Mondays! I think in both 1994 and 2005 I went there when so shut down. It sits on the ocean, like Vina de Mar, but most people live among its steep and steeper climes, serros and lomas and colinas.

5.  Chillan. (accent over the "a")

I am biased. I studied there in 1994; it is known as the "cuna de poetas", the cradle of poets. Gonzalo Rojas was from there, where he taught me and others. I think other historical poets hailed from there, too. The downtown has a modern cathedral that is unique, it is not too big, but it is a part of Chile that everyone recognizes as truly their heartland. Far from ocean and mountain, perhaps far is relative, like Santiago, it is a typical city and has nothing too extraordinary to remark on. It is normal, it is nice. It is Chile.

6. Temuco.

Pretty big city in the farther south. I have stayed there by day briefly. Closer located to the native Mapuche reservations and their indigenous influences. I think it is nice, the crime does not seem to be too bad, as most places in the country.

7. Valdivia. 

Picturesque city further south, with a strong German architectural and cultural influence since the 1800s. Lies close to the ocean, and has a pretty river called Calle Calle that runs by it. A great place to visit when vacationing in the warm summers. Pretty rainy in the winters from April to August.

10. Puerto Montt.

Southern ocean bay town, close to everything wild and wonderful. German colonies and mountain trips, ferries alighting to the magical island of Chiloe (accent sobre la "e"), and an ocean vibe like parts of Oregon or Seattle, or perhaps Victoria, British Colombia. Not the cleanest, but definitely quaint and sea-sidy.

11. Antofagasta.

Never been there. Way up north, a world away from the rest of Chile. Dry and arid, like few cities in the world. Seems to have nice beaches, not sure of the downtown or buildings. Need to go to it someday. I think they get ocean liners docking off their bays. I know great people from there and everyone who lived there liked it.

12. Punta Arenas.

Southern most city in the world. Not too many people. Gets very cold in the winter, maybe like Juneau, Alaska? Might make my way down there someday, not sure. Iceland seems more likely for me at this point, which may be a bit like Tierra del Fuego.

13. Angol.

Whoops, that's one extra. I lived there as a missionary, and later as a young father. This city has my heart and memories for many reasons, most them good.

In sum, it was the Goldilocks syndrome: not too big, not too small, and all loving to me. There were poor, and wealthy, and most in between. When I was last there, two Pakistanis, one Indian, one Chinese man, one Slovak woman, a French lady... And us funny gringos.

They loved us and we loved them.

Chile, a place that has cities and a lot of land and bounteous life.

They are all top in my book, and dozens of pueblitos and byways in between. When I get rich I will take you back there; I know some people that will treat you right. They can be better than us, but are normal like us; they will show us what hospitality really is. Some have changed over time for the worse, but deep down they are extremely kind and generous. They loved this gringo. And I loved them, still do.

It seems kind of dreamy, in a way not real. 

But it is, and I believe it always will be.